Fashion’s youngest guns unleashed a trio of disquieting collections at this Topman-sponsored group showcase that has yielded such rising stars as Grace Wales Bonner, whose show Sunday is the weekend’s hot ticket.
Small-town Swede and recent graduate Per Götesson opened the proceedings with stiff, dystopian denim that was almost as disheartening as the bundle of tattered mattresses plopped on the runway.
Jeans dangling chains and beer-can ring-pulls fanned out over the floor as if from panniers and seemed burdensome to walk in, though not as torturous as the rib-crunching corset Charles Jeffrey Loverboy sent out tucked into navy sweatpants. His fey fashion universe includes puffed shoulders, swishy dressmaker coats and HotPants spangled with silver shower hose and sink strainers.
There was a whiff of this trash aesthetic to Feng Chen Wang’s compositions in filmy black nylon, billowing here, tangled up there. They owed a debt to Craig Green, London’s dean of streamers and parachute material, but took his aesthetic beyond monastic to something more freewheeling. Sweatshirts with padded letters spelling out “You” or “We” were almost — almost — cheerful.