Sebastiaan Pieter was back to his subversive tricks, once again mining themes of gay culture. This season he looked to the work of the Cuban-born, American artist Félix González-Torres, and specifically his “Untitled (Go-Go Dancing Platform),” 1991, an installation featuring a wooden platform, glowing light bulbs, and a male go-go dancer wearing sneakers, headphones and a silver lamé swimsuit.


Pieter focused on the midriff, with tops and jackets cropped and cutaway layers used to saucily expose flesh. One super-low-cut pair of trousers had silver Speedos underneath, layered to expose a flash of hip, and was worn with an abbreviated black cotton top.


The silver leather biker was a nice touch, while a glitter-covered gray marl hoodie and shorts were a playfully camp take on activewear.