Graeme Gaughan’s Tourne de Transmission is still a relative newcomer to the men’s wear scene, but the label has already laid down a solid DNA with recognizable codes that were well, executed in a simple but effective collection.
There were ponchos and parkas made from suit fabric with black-on-black patchwork and asymmetric stepped hems, raw-edged jeans (Tourne was at the vanguard of this particular movement), shots of grunge-y plaid in long-line shirts plus a stripped down biker jacket. Inside-out pastel sweats with overlong sleeves injected a softness into proceedings.
There’s always a global undercurrent and this season’s took its cue from an imagined conversation between Gaughan and contemporary artist Chris Dorland about how discarded Western billboards have been repurposed as shelters throughout the Third World. The presentation’s backdrop was just such distressed advertising imagery, which found its way onto outerwear looks via vinyl ripcords bearing the legend “Choose Your Escape Route.”