Xander Zhou’s collections often conjure outsider-ish tribes, and this season was no exception.


With his show notes taking the form of a series of provocative words — “stimulate,” “uncontrolled” and “punk” among them — the designer sent out a band of skinny, youthful models clad in swathes of PVC, camouflage print, leather and Lurex.


Deconstructed trenchcoats were a recurring motif — one black PVC number had its arms slashed off and its collar stitched with scraps of blue shirting fabric, while one blue trench had detachable, oversized sleeves. They jostled with hooded tops that swamped the models’ frames, in pink Lurex or Army green cotton, along with leather pants and camouflage Army jackets.


Zhou underlined this punk mood with keys worn on heavy chains as necklaces, beaten-up sneakers and platform work boots. It all telegraphed a rebellious, innocent — yet no doubt unconventional — charm.

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