“Home is where I want to be,” is the opening line of a Talking Heads song that inspired Damir Doma. The lyrics carried a special meaning for the designer, who recently relocated his company from Paris to Milan, merging his women’s and men’s departments in an attempt to make production easier and timing more relevant for his small, yet growing indie label. Through the changes, the brand managed to keep its individual, gently rebellious appeal and this spring season was a beautiful testament to that.
For the first time the men’s and women’s looks were equally represented, riffing off each other. Silhouettes were slim and elongated, at times cinched around the ribs, producing a handsome leanness and a sense of order among Doma’s distressed, unruly fabrics, which he worked to great effect this season. There was paper-thin silk for a transparent rain parka, patchworked and overdyed denim, bleach-printed viscose worn as “flags,” as Doma called them, over T-shirts and handmade knits that he artfully embroidered with ribbons and scraps of fabric.
There was also a lot of movement in the looks, which were either layered — bombers over kimono-wrapped jackets and cropped voluminous pants, for example — or pierced together with metal rings, best seen on vests that had a unisex appeal.
“Never for money. Only for love,” went the Talking Heads chorus, echoing Doma’s unique approach to fashion.