Less is more. That’s a natural state of mind at Jil Sander. This season, creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga stressed to the minimal factor to the max with a collection rooted an elegant, essential aesthetic.
Following a fall lineup, which felt too intricate with a cascade of military-style belts and straps on outwear and tailoring, spring came with a more practical and functional attitude. Although everything was cut in sharp silhouettes, Paglialunga steered clear of stiffness and opted for a more comfortable ease.
The lineup was strong on softly constructed staples, such as oversize trenches, graphic leather jackets, slim pants, lightweight suits and knits with a luxurious feel. A workwear-inspired, utilitarian theme was introduced via shirts and jackets embellished with multiple pockets.
Despite the overall simplicity, the collection had a charming twist, which emerged in particular in the suits and lightweight coats featuring chic degrade effects. While focused on monochromatic looks, the lineup included a captivating blurred floral print, which was subtle and discreet.
With this convincing effort, Paglialunga seems finally to have found the right vocabulary to start communicating his own vision of the Jil Sander label.