Following a dark winter season, Pal Zileri showed his true colors for spring. Taking cues from Italian abstract painter Manlio Rho, whom creative director Mauro Krieger discovered in a New York gallery, the brand employed a rich palette based on papaya orange, cactus green and eggplant, often worn tone on tone or boldly juxtaposed against each other.
Rho’s graphic brush stroke was visible in a series of tonal prints, which gave a camouflage effect to the garments from a distance. Krieger said he also discovered Vincenza as a city of silk, “which was a big surprise for me,” quoting Venice and Como as the historic centers of the fabric. “What you see here is all silk — silk and linen, tweeded wool with silk and linen, print on silk and silk outerwear with a membrane inside that makes it waterproof,” he explained backstage. Throughout, the luxury fabric added a sheen to the collection, particularly noticeable on a run of shantung T-shirts and tapered pants.
Sartorial at the root, the shapes for spring were loose and hinged on single-breasted suit jackets worn open.
The designer also looked to indigo denim as a new category. But although a volley of pleated jeans added a contemporary twist, the pants veered gimmicky when shown with large leather-bonded cuffs, disturbing an otherwise relaxed collection.