“It never rains in California,” went the Seventies ditty. Unfortunately, cold rain does fall in Sweden, often in summertime, which is why Jonny Johansson made waterproof jackets the centerpiece of his spring collection for Acne Studios.

Big and tentlike, the coats had an A-line shape accentuated by sturdy fabrics and side zips from the armpit on down. Big collars heightened their ungainliness.

Johansson, who has a cottage previously owned by Ingmar Bergman on Torö, an island in the Stockholm archipelago, also used glazed patterns ripped from outdoor tablecloths for boxy blousons.

Standout items included jersey pants with white side zips, loosely knit sweaters with rag-rug airs and loose cotton shorts. This was a crisp and charming offering and Johansson acknowledged the collection’s nostalgic heart.