Alexandre Mattiussi lightened up for spring. With all that has been going on in the world and in Paris especially, he felt he had to “bring the energy back, which is really our responsibility,” he told journalists backstage. The mood was set by models walking past large pristine windows that were gently veiled by breezy curtains as the sun was symbolically rising again on the Grand Palais, where the show was held. Call it “the morning after,” or “waking up next to your French lover,” Mattiussi offered.
That lover had an unequivocally Parisian sense of dressing, one that made the brand a favorite with the city’s cool elite, including women, who have adopted the nonchalant aesthetic, as witnessed by Caroline de Maigret, Lou Doillon and Christine and the Queens sitting front row.
The full-leg, pleated trouser with a high waist or dropped crotch telegraphed boyish verve and enthusiasm. A printed nylon hoodie or knitted sweater, both loosely tucked into bottoms, added pep to the tailoring, while a Seventies color palette and Seventies staples spread the period’s fun-loving attitude. Cue a synthetic tracksuit in burnt orange with a belted suede coat in chocolate brown as cover.
For the first time there was also a very skinny, very British silhouette composed of slim blue jeans, a fitted Chesterfield coat in classic check, styled with black leather loafers. It was unexpected, but looked fresh and had zing when matched with AMI’s zip-up track jacket. As the designer said: “That too is AMI. I wanted to show that this is a democratic brand. It’s for everyone.”