Boris Bidjan Saberi delivered a versatile collection that was less Goth and more “Mad Max” this season.
The German designer’s signature layering and mix of volumes remained, but rather than giving off a strong urban or military vibe, here was a more itinerant, tribal take. This was due partially to the earthy hues he used, such as ochre, brown and sand.
Particularly strong for spring was outerwear, like the school-bus yellow, sleeveless rain slicker overlayed with a billowy brown jacket, the long patchwork vest or the chunky honeycomb knitted number.
Saberi displayed a dexterity at mixing fabrics, such as waxed cotton and leather, which combined came across as strong yet well-worn — a striking balance.