Philippe Paubert revved up the creativity levels at Ungaro with the label’s second full men’s collection, putting an Oceania-inspired ethnic twist on its men’s wear staples, giving them a bohemian elegance.
The juxtaposition of textures and materials was key, as in linen jackets for evening with classic tuxedo collars, which could be paired with not-quite-matching jacquard waistcoats with a ribbon edge. These were available in traditional masculine colorways like navy or in a more extravagant, earthy palette of burnt orange and khaki. The collection also took in paler shades like white and sky blue for summer, as in a linen-cotton blend chenille jacket that offered a summery alternative to velvet and white casual pants with subtle flecks of color in the weave.
The use of tweed-type weaves and flecked linens could have verged on old-fashioned, but Paubert managed to pull them into contemporary shape with a dandyish appeal. Comfort was key thanks to the integration of elastane and jersey in many pieces.
Pops of bright color were provided, meanwhile, by way of a print inspired by the label’s vintage silk scarf designs, used as a lining for jackets and on the back of a waistcoat for an element of surprise.