Hiromichi Ochiai sent down his first Paris runway a directional collection charged with more sartorial pieces than in seasons past.
He opened the gender-bending display with finely tailored vests, trousers and shorts spiked with streetwear details, like tube socks or checkered sneakers. Other mash-ups included white cotton shirting that was deconstructed and mixed with preppy stripe knitted elements and jackets reconstructed to resemble overall tops.
“I always get inspiration from Tokyo,” he said backstage before the show. “I mix high-end fashion with street-youth culture.”
The designer, who was shortlisted for the most recent LVMH Prize, also presented a healthy dose of the latter, including one look involving a patchwork sweater layered over a billowy, checkered skirt-like panel and jeans, and some varsity sportswear tops.
New to Ochiai’s collection this season was fabric with a paper touch used in coats, for a varied-volume result. That blended nicely in the panoply of materials and textures he used with great effect, including denim, camouflage and florals. The designer’s versatility is clearly obvious.