“I wish it was not raining on my parade,” a rueful Haider Ackermann said after his spring men’s show, held in the courtyard of the Palais Galliera.
Staging an open-air fashion show in Paris in June — especially after the French capital’s wettest spring in 150 years — was always going to be risky. Ackermann took the plunge and his guests got sprinkled, though it would take more than a few drops of rain to dilute the joy of his color-drenched collection.
The designer left no Pantone chart unexplored. There were shimmering shades of amethyst, emerald, fuchsia and turquoise, and delicate hues of pastel pink, sea green and baby blue. Pops of DayGlo yellow, Klein blue and safety orange competed with lamé leather and bright floral prints.
“Don’t we need energy at the moment? I mean, everyone — the whole industry, the whole world needs to have this positive energy,” he said, by way of explanation. “It’s all about freedom.”
Ackermann pushed his dandy aesthetic into sportswear territory with tracksuit stripes on pleated pants, embellished bomber jackets and silk shirts inspired by boxing robes. The latter were loosely tucked into pants or left open, the better to show off full-body tattoos on a few of the models.
His signature tailoring was out in force, too. The eye went immediately to his terrific pleated pants, which were loose around the crotch, cropped above the ankle and draped or folded at the waist. They came in black — naturally — but suddenly, the bubblegum pink version looked a lot more appealing.