Paul Helbers is turning into a specialist for off-duty elegance. For his sophomore effort, the Paris-based designer, whose résumé includes stints at Martin Margiela and Louis Vuitton, paraded a wardrobe based on unfussy constructions that softly steered away from trendy obsessions. A dry linen suit jacket came with goat instead of horse hair lining, which softened it for the summer but enabled it to keep a solid shape around the shoulders. Multipleated pants were worn loosely with rolled-up hems, while cropped chinos sported practical double pockets. “It’s such a nasty thing when you sit down and everything falls out,” commented Helbers, revealing his attention to detail. Comfort was also high on his list, as witnessed by a run of joggers. Shown with contrasting cotton-linen patches, they added a graphic punch to this calm collection rendered in an organic palette of grays, blues and whites.