Picture an ocean wave in all its colors, shapes and movements and you will quickly relate to Julien David’s accomplished spring collection.
The designer, who has recently relocated to London but still produces all of his garments in Japan, played with intriguing patterns and textures to get his spring theme across. A round-shaped smock coat and breezy street-suit were rendered in a cross-dyed tropical wool fabric, which produced slightly undulating forms as the models briskly marched down the runway. In another instance, 3-D zigzag stitching on cotton-jersey tops imitated the spikes of wave crests, while a light jacquard looked cool and crafty on an oversize suit option woven with little colored ropes.
Yet the standout category here — both in terms of cuts and textures — was clearly denim. David conjured a soft variety, bio stonewashed and woven in a palette of rainbow colors, which he used for street-friendly kimono coats, balloon pants as well as his signature workwear jackets. Elsewhere, a pigment-coated, white denim ensemble created subtle reflections, while a stretch indigo denim was woven to look a tapestry fabric. It was witty and fun.