It was the brand’s first show in six years, but the delivery — presented at night on a tile-print runway in the courtyard of an old factory in Florence, overlooked by a tree filled with glowing lanterns — looked fresh.
Bart De Backer embraced a youthful aesthetic with his run of effortlessly cool, oversize silhouettes, opening with a range of white-on-white looks. Roomy double-breasted suits were layered over elongated striped shirts and arty T-shirts printed with Jean-Michel Basquiat-esque motifs in splashy brights including Hugo Red. They enhanced the hip street vibe of the lineup, and the Nineties grunge flavor embodied by the overalls, baggies, chunky sneakers and striped knits lined with rows of silver rings.
Elevating the urban collection, a striped pajama suit paired with a lightweight trench with shirt-button details down the back exuded effortless elegance.
The women’s section — hooked on long slipdresses, oversize outerwear and relaxed inside-out pants — felt a little out of sync, with Basquiat prints applied to sheer hand-painted organza dresses losing a lot of the graphic impact. Clad in a blue tracksuit front row, the night’s entertainer, M.I.A., who shared her thoughts on the collection following the show, said she was also partial to the men’s.
See More From the London 2018 Men’s Spring Collections:
Stella McCartney Screens Men’s Wear Short Film at 16th-century Pub: Steven Tyler, Steve Coogan were among the guests at the Tudor-era watering hole.
Charles Jeffrey Men’s Spring 2018: A riotous cast of characters, unified in their theatricality and Jeffrey’s joyous treatment of his theme: debauchery.
Cottweiler feat. Reebok Men’s Spring 2018: Dainty and Cottrell looked to the optimism and escapism of off-grid desert communities for spring.
What We Wear Men’s Spring 2018: Tinie Tempah fused the brand’s minimalist aesthetic with a sportier one for spring.
Wales Bonner Men’s Spring 2018: This focused yet subdued collection saw Grace Wales Bonner musing on a “blue mood.”
Christopher Raeburn Men’s Spring 2018: There was a lightness and transparency to Christopher Raeburn’s signature practical silhouettes.