Musing on the idea of “masculinity,” Raimund Berthold’s powerful collection showcased a lineup of urban uniforms that took inspiration from elements of African tribal dress through to photographs of hardened child soldiers.

“I had images of all these boy soldiers who were robbed of their youth — they dress like soldiers, but nothing fits them,” said Berthold. That resulted in what the designer called the collection’s “awkward proportions” — pants’ hems swept the floor, while the cuffs on men’s and women’s anoraks trailed over the hands.

But ultimately Berthold’s influences were understated rather than obvious, as he spun his ideas into clothes that looked fresh and modern. He used a shiny black technical fabric to craft pieces that looked like an urban take on robes, such as bomber jackets worn over fluid, wide-leg pants; tunic-like, sleeveless trenchcoats, and fluid parkas.

The optimistic colors of South Sudananese and Ethiopian tribal dress came through amid the black palette. Among the highlights were black ponchos and coats inset with patches of red, yellow and red, while a series of looks were fashioned in sunshine yellow, such as wide-leg pants, sweeping trenches and pull-over ponchos.

For more on the men’s spring/summer 2018 season, watch this:

See More From the 2018 Resort Collections:

Giorgio Armani Resort 2018Contrasting forces emerged in Giorgio Armani’s resort collection, which spanned from eclectic, multicolor designs to essential, sophisticated attires.
Norma Kamali Resort 2018: Norma Kamali offered an extensive resort collection where she updated her signature pieces and expanded on her outerwear and swim.
Rachel Zoe Resort 2018: Rachel Zoe’s resort collection was guided by a cool, Sixties undertone with a modern, sculptural interpretation.
Lela Rose Resort 2018: The designer showed a charming resort collection of garden party-ready wares, which included pearls inset in sleeves and lace-up grosgrain details.
Altuzarra Resort 2018: Joseph Altuzarra referenced Patrick Bateman and the French countryside for a resort collection full of newness and some risks.