Bianca Saunders continued to examine ideas around black male identity and hyper-masculinity, a theme she started exploring last season. For her spring 2019 collection titled “Gestures,” the South London native focused on movement and presented a collection that featured a more directional silhouette than last season with tighter chests, looser sleeves and straight-cut trousers in jersey, nylon, shirting and denim. Delicate folds and ruching were seen throughout the collection, blurring the boundaries between femininity and masculinity.

“Gestures” was a poetic exploration of new perspectives of masculinity. Silhouettes were softened and leaner and formed to the body. Saunders brought the seam lines forward to create vestlike shirts with high V-necks, removing the emphasis on strong shoulders traditionally associated with men’s wear. Plaid shirts, another wardrobe staple, were given the Saunders treatment with a woven elastane running through it, adding a subtle ripple effect.

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