“Dunhill needs to be new and young,” stated new chief executive officer Andrew Maag at the brand’s presentation Monday evening, which marked the debut collection from fellow ex-Burberry alum and new creative director Mark Weston, who also presented a capsule from the fall 2017 collection. “One-hundred percent of everything is new,” Maag added. “We wiped the slate clean and started over. We needed a reboot.”
Cue yet another whole new look for Dunhill in the brand’s latest in a string of reinventions over the last two decades, with more sportswear introduced into the mix for the hitherto traditionally focused brand. It was younger and sportier but retained the refined British sensibility that its customers — both existing and target — expect.
A khaki field jacket was an example of this, teamed with a narrow pair of black trousers, shiny black boots and a simple white collarless shirt. Weston and Maag both singled out a reversible bomber jacket in a bottle green Fox Brothers boating stripe — a fresh spin on the traditional club coat — which could be turned inside-out for a sporty solid khaki alternative.
Given Weston’s Burberry background, outerwear was the star of the lineup, with other highlights including a rich caramel suede blouson, worn with white trainers and burnt toffee pants, and a look that referenced Fifties Teddy Boy style with a pale pink cropped cotton jacket worn over a white shirt and with black loafers — worn sockless.
See More From the London 2018 Men’s Spring Collections:
Stella McCartney Screens Men’s Wear Short Film at 16th-century Pub: Steven Tyler, Steve Coogan were among the guests at the Tudor-era watering hole.
Charles Jeffrey Men’s Spring 2018: A riotous cast of characters, unified in their theatricality and Jeffrey’s joyous treatment of his theme: debauchery.
Cottweiler feat. Reebok Men’s Spring 2018: Dainty and Cottrell looked to the optimism and escapism of off-grid desert communities for spring.
What We Wear Men’s Spring 2018: Tinie Tempah fused the brand’s minimalist aesthetic with a sportier one for spring.
Wales Bonner Men’s Spring 2018: This focused yet subdued collection saw Grace Wales Bonner musing on a “blue mood.”
Christopher Raeburn Men’s Spring 2018: There was a lightness and transparency to Christopher Raeburn’s signature practical silhouettes.