Patrick Grant said he wanted to make some “really beautiful…non-shouty clothes” for this collection, which was filled with breezy yet sharply cut pieces that mined an early Eighties mood.

Specifically, Grant said he’d looked to images of Jeremy Irons modeling during that period. “There was this totally relaxed elegance about it all,” said the designer.

Silhouettes ran from the sporty to the sartorial, but all had a sense of refinement. A navy suit jacket had gently sloping shoulders and was paired with loosely tailored pants, while a field jacket in a slightly iridescent oxblood color was teamed with loose linen shorts — and a shirt and skinny tie. Grant noted that he’d wanted to work with some retro fabrics “that I remembered my dad having shirts in,” such as muslin and cheesecloth. These textures, along with fabrics such as bouclé wool and linen, brought a relaxed appeal to Grant’s signature tailoring.

He admitted that he’d only wanted to “nudge it slightly forward” in terms of his label’s aesthetic, and there were no major surprises in the lineup. But given that the designer said he envisaged the collection as a serene foil to “the turmoil of the past 12 months,” that seemed to be his intention. “It’s understatement rather than overstatement — I think we need more understatement,” noted Grant.

For more on the men’s spring/summer 2018 season, watch this:

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