Arashi Yanagawa likes a little retro twist. For spring, the designer took cues from the post-punk era of the late Seventies, playing with proportions and going against conventions with a rebellious yet steady touch.
The show opened with a series of tailoring options, which featured a handsome run of hyper-volume trousers, cinched high at the waist. Yanagawa paired them with fluid satin blazers, some of which came in elongated silhouettes and with their sleeves cut off at the shoulders laying bare the garments’ artisanal construction, while in other instances sleeveless sweaters layered on top of hooded men’s shirts completed the pleasantly off-kilter silhouettes.
“Kafkaesk,” as a bold print occasionally suggested, they were indeed.
As the show progressed, the collection got darker, turning more “Blade Runner” than “Talking Heads,” thanks to a volley of distressed leather looks which included a bulky perfecto with matching shorts and heavy knee-high boots. They required some getting used to.
Yanagawa’s proposal for women, meanwhile, outlined a more clean and collected handwriting. A pinstriped ensemble, featuring spacious bottoms and a slim-fit shirt jacket zipped on the side, would surely make a speedy segue into the streets.
See More From the London 2018 Men’s Spring Collections:
Stella McCartney Screens Men’s Wear Short Film at 16th-century Pub: Steven Tyler, Steve Coogan were among the guests at the Tudor-era watering hole.
Charles Jeffrey Men’s Spring 2018: A riotous cast of characters, unified in their theatricality and Jeffrey’s joyous treatment of his theme: debauchery.
Cottweiler feat. Reebok Men’s Spring 2018: Dainty and Cottrell looked to the optimism and escapism of off-grid desert communities for spring.
What We Wear Men’s Spring 2018: Tinie Tempah fused the brand’s minimalist aesthetic with a sportier one for spring.
Wales Bonner Men’s Spring 2018: This focused yet subdued collection saw Grace Wales Bonner musing on a “blue mood.”
Christopher Raeburn Men’s Spring 2018: There was a lightness and transparency to Christopher Raeburn’s signature practical silhouettes.