Martine Rose continued to explore the archetypes of men and took on a trio of references: outdoor enthusiasts, Trevor Hughes’ images and electronic dance club culture.
She staged her show at the Stronghold Climbing & Bouldering Centre where models walked down the runway held in the indoor climbing facility in Tottenham Hale.
“I was looking at Toronto’s underground scene in the Eighties and Nineties,” said Rose. “While I was researching, I was really inspired by the outdoor lifestyle. I started looking into all sorts of outdoor activities like climbers and golfers. It was about making ordinary extraordinary again.”
This translated into a cool and sporty collection that paid homage to the Nineties and had a youthful vibe.
The designer worked in raincoats, fleeces, sweaters and cargo shorts in enlarged sporty shapes and traditional prints for her collection. She balanced a palette of bold reds, purples and forest greens with denim and pastels.
She paired an oversize orange leather jacket that had enlarged pockets with blue cycling shorts as a nod to electronic dance club culture while a multicolored raincoat done in bright hues of red, green and blue was layered over a zip-up top and navy knee-length shorts.
Oversize lightweight wool suits that came in hues of khaki, brown, black and an electric blue were worn with belt bags tucked into the inside of high-waisted trousers. This was paired with button-down shirts in solid pink, khaki and white along with checks and stripes.
The designer — who was a part of the MTV generation — revamped the TV logo on a black shirt worn under a tailored gray jacket and white shorts.
Elsewhere, she injected a few pieces of women’s wear such as a khaki knee-length pencil skirt — with a triple waist — paired with a blue striped button-down blouse as an ode to the women who wear her clothes.
See More From the London 2018 Men’s Spring Collections:
Stella McCartney Screens Men’s Wear Short Film at 16th-century Pub: Steven Tyler, Steve Coogan were among the guests at the Tudor-era watering hole.
Charles Jeffrey Men’s Spring 2018: A riotous cast of characters, unified in their theatricality and Jeffrey’s joyous treatment of his theme: debauchery.
Cottweiler feat. Reebok Men’s Spring 2018: Dainty and Cottrell looked to the optimism and escapism of off-grid desert communities for spring.
What We Wear Men’s Spring 2018: Tinie Tempah fused the brand’s minimalist aesthetic with a sportier one for spring.
Wales Bonner Men’s Spring 2018: This focused yet subdued collection saw Grace Wales Bonner musing on a “blue mood.”
Christopher Raeburn Men’s Spring 2018: There was a lightness and transparency to Christopher Raeburn’s signature practical silhouettes.