Clothes that by turn conjured up rebellion and propriety jostled for attention in Matthew Miller’s arresting collection, which he staged against the stained glass backdrop of London’s St. Sepulchre’s Church, a building that dates back to the 15th century.
But the mood was far from historical. The designer sent out punkish-looking male and female models with blue or purple lipstick smeared across their mouths, wearing clothes that at first glance looked subversive. Tank tops had bondage-style straps at the shoulders and waist, while leather straps and metal buckles trailed from silk bomber jackets and female models wore dresses made from pouffy layers of black tulle.
Calling the collection “degenerate,” Miller said it was his response to “this young generation [which is] now politicized, and their carefree, unadulterated freedom.”
However, amid this attitude, there were plenty of designs that had a restrained air. Miller sent out fluid silk tuxedo suits for men and women, along with sharp trenchcoats made in collaboration with British brand Hancock, in shades of camel and navy. Slim tailored pants for men anchored the lineup. Miller said he wanted to veer away from fashion’s current preoccupation with streetwear, and instead offer a “youthful” take on tailoring. The result was a compelling collection that riffed on the tension between freedom and formality.