Educated in London, designers Yushan Li and Jun Zhou are now based between Milan and Shanghai, and showed at London Fashion Week Men’s for the first time as guests of GQ China. The brand was also the winner of The Latest Fashion Buzz prize at Pitti Uomo last January, and a nominee for the International Woolmark Prize 2017.
Their spring collection was a blend of traditional tailoring and Chinese workwear influences, and was filled with eye-popping primary colors, whisper-thin fabrics, and lots of heavy silks and cottons, many adorned with delicate silver utility buckles.
“It was about shadows and layering, light and dark,” said Li following the show, which saw models dressed in look-at-me pieces that, while beautifully made, appeared a little too substantial for such a warm season.
There was a screaming yellow boiler suit with frayed sleeves, long and fluid navy trousers adorned with delicate leather panels, and a boxy cream suit with patch pockets and biker-style trousers with details around the knee.
A sheer white long-sleeve sweater with buckles at the side was a delicate counterpoint to the polished but weighty looks in the collection.