Daks creative director Filippo Scuffi channeled a British society club for spring, in particular, a vintage regatta mood. This included an array of retro suits with high-waisted pants mainly worked in collegelike striped patterns. Coats of arms appeared on intarsia sweaters tucked into pants with trench-inspired belts, while V-neck knits had retro sport graphics. At a time when designers are trying to reflect today’s multicultural diversity, this collection focused on a closed gentlemen’s circle seemed somewhat anachronistic.

More From Milan Men’s Spring 2018 Collections:

Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Spring 2018: A summer on the Italian Riviera inspired Guillaume Meilland’s young and effortless chic collection.

Versace Men’s Spring 2018: It was vintage Versace through the Millennial lens, and those who are already fans won’t be let down. But there could have been so much more.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label Men’s Spring 2018: The collection centered on taking the best from the past and repackaging it for a new generation.

Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Spring 2018: The laid-back ath-luxe mood was elevated by impressive material research.

Emporio Armani Men’s Spring 2018: The Asian-inspired collection featured clever plays on layering.

Marni Men’s Spring 2018: Francesco Risso injected a childlike, free-spirited feel into this effortless cool collection.