Marlon Brando in “The Wild One,” a lot of tropical motifs mixed with Western vibes and a pinch of Boy Scouts. That was the cocktail that Dean and Dan Caten served for spring. Setting aside any metaphors, the coed show was disorienting. There were too many elements, too many decorations, a little bit too much of everything (although that’s no surprise from the Catens).

This season, the designers seemed to have lost their way. Instead of their signature playful glamour, they delivered an exercise in exaggeration. The engraved buckles of Western-style belts became the signature embellishments of the men’s and women’s lineups. For example, they ran down the legs of men’s leopard pants, trimmed the perfecto jackets and punctuated the oversized cardigans. Leather was crafted for men’s skin-tight pants and mini skirts, worn with bold tops in tropical floral prints, sometimes embellished with allover embroideries of micro crystals.

Street hoodies clashed with the lace saloon skirts in the women’s range, while Boy Scout shirts with patches felt out of place when paired with motorbike pants. The prom-like suits, including a design in an aqua color, didn’t reflect the sartorial polish of Dsquared2’s tailoring offering. Many of the brand’s specialties, including the luxury denim designs and the cool, sporty outerwear, were missing in a collection that seemed like a lost opportunity to reflect the brand’s growing business.

More From Milan Men’s Spring 2018 Collections:

Prada Men’s Spring 2018: All the quirk and romance of the fall collection was swept away – in a moment – by Miuccia Prada, who sent her preppy nerds and rustic hippies packing.

Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Spring 2018: A summer on the Italian Riviera inspired Guillaume Meilland’s young and effortless chic collection.

MSGM Men’s Spring 2018: The youthful, upbeat collection confirmed Massimo Giorgetti’s status as a key player in Milan’s new guard.

Versace Men’s Spring 2018: It was vintage Versace through the Millennial lens, and those who are already fans won’t be let down. But there could have been so much more.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label Men’s Spring 2018: The collection centered on taking the best from the past and repackaging it for a new generation.

Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Spring 2018: The laid-back ath-luxe mood was elevated by impressive material research.

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