The set at Moncler Gamme Bleu represented a jarring duality. At first glance there were pine trees and snow, causing one to wonder whether the brand had the wrong season. But beyond the pines were palm trees – and the snow had become the illusion of white sand. The message was clear: while Moncler might be selling spring-summer in the Northern Hemisphere, it was winter in the Southern one.

The set was only the precursor to another cinematic runway show by Thom Browne as models first walked in bulky winter clothes and boots. Each paused in front of a deck chair, only to undress and reveal lighter, summer clothes as the under-layer.

Both the warmer and the lighter lineups were infused with the designer’s edgy sartorial touch, which translated into suits, padded or not, featuring tailored jackets matched with fitted cropped pants or shorts. Of course, the outerwear offering was broad – there were sharp-cut coats and peacoats, as well as bombers and zippered vests. Browne used a range of materials, spanning from checked wool and cottons to nylon, mesh and seersucker.

But while everything bore Moncler’s signature impeccable touch, nothing seemed actually new for the brand. Moreover, the layered look, which was enhanced by coordinated ties and shirts, felt heavy when it came to spring, except for the colorblocked swim shorts and briefs.

More From Milan Men’s Spring 2018 Collections:

Prada Men’s Spring 2018: All the quirk and romance of the fall collection was swept away – in a moment – by Miuccia Prada, who sent her preppy nerds and rustic hippies packing.

Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Spring 2018: A summer on the Italian Riviera inspired Guillaume Meilland’s young and effortless chic collection.

Versace Men’s Spring 2018: It was vintage Versace through the Millennial lens, and those who are already fans won’t be let down. But there could have been so much more.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label Men’s Spring 2018: The collection centered on taking the best from the past and repackaging it for a new generation.

Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Spring 2018: The laid-back ath-luxe mood was elevated by impressive material research.

Emporio Armani Men’s Spring 2018: The Asian-inspired collection featured clever plays on layering.

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