For the first show in his new industrial Milan digs and the final installment in a trilogy of collections nodding to his musical youth, Neil Barrett stripped back to his essence with an homage to Nineties minimalism.
The designer’s front row peers bobbed their heads to classics from the decade’s U.K. rave scene like Moby’s “Go” and Underworld’s “Born Slippy,” the perfect accompaniment to the streetwear and workwear-heavy lineup tricked with bands of silver tape. The designer revisited knits with trucker collars, patch pocket blousons, minimalist car coats and the like. A silhouette pairing a white T-shirt with two silver bands on the shoulder, worn with a black pant with a cummerbund effect, was pure Nineties. The women’s was more dressy and deconstructed, with asymmetric dresses twisting around the silhouette, ending in geometric points.
Barrett for the most part stuck to a basic palette of beige, white, black and silver, save for a capsule of blue and red pieces in a liquid ink print that evoked waves.
He didn’t just look backward, though. A gray check suit pairing an oversize boxy jacket with matching Bermuda short and button-down shirt felt fresh, with baggy oversize tailoring also bringing the collection into the now. But ultimately, as the brand enters a new chapter, the show summed up what Barrett does best: Great commercial clothes that deliver simple graphic effect.
More From Milan Men’s Spring 2018 Collections:
Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Spring 2018: The laid-back ath-luxe mood was elevated by impressive material research.
Emporio Armani Men’s Spring 2018: The Asian-inspired collection featured clever plays on layering.
Marni Men’s Spring 2018: Francesco Risso injected a childlike, free-spirited feel into this effortless cool collection.
Andrea Pompilio Men’s Spring 2018: The textured collection merged references from city and vacation wear with an old-school vibe.
Z Zegna Men’s Spring 2018: The versatile lineup offered a range of elegant formal options.
Diesel Black Gold Co-Ed Show: Men’s and Women’s Spring 2018 Collection: The tech-sport collection had a Nineties grunge-meets-skater vibe.