“Nothingness is just as important as things that are there,” Andrea Tsao, one-third of Deveaux’s design team, posited ahead of the brand’s fourth outing. That philosophical outlook was taken from Japanese architect Tadao Ando’s design M.O. — whose use of muted palettes, clean lines and leanings toward raw materials parallel design elements in the Deveaux world.
The tether to Ando was light, bearing conceptual details that made minimal silhouettes feel special. An “architect” car coat that opened the show, for example, played with the idea of spacing and exposure, featuring pockets that wove in and out. “What you see and what you can’t see is a large part of his architecture,” Tsao continued. Other details like pockets-within-pockets and belts weaving through cutouts teetered on modern and luxurious design.
The overall tone was more relaxed than previous efforts, featuring an experimentation with oversize fits and vintage sensibilities. Roomy, A-line coats in black washed nylon and glen plaid erred on the side of sophistication, while color-blocked knitwear, khaki-and-white top combos, and chunky sneakers were retro and retail-friendly propositions.
The team also showed a few women’s looks, which showcased architectural references with more freedom. Standouts included a sharp tailored blazer and offbeat olive cotton shirt. It will be interesting to see how that category develops with the official women’s launch in September.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used a variety of nautical references in the line.
Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2018: The designer was inspired by the ocean and Atlantis.
Descendant of Thieves Men’s Spring 2018: The designer toyed with the aesthetic of deviant Mods of the Sixties, balancing an energetic collection of colorful prints with relaxed silhouettes.