For his third collection, Heliot Emil designer Julius Juul drew inspiration — at times too literally —  from military garments in a collection that he described as PTCS, or post-traumatic combat stress.

The use of actual military hardware such as parachute cords and heavy buckles gave the utility garments a streetwise edge.

Some of the clothes bordered on costumey, such as the Army green bulletproof vest with Velcro details.

A sweatshirt with the word “Ketamine” printed on the front worn with a high-waisted camouflage pant winked to Nineties rave culture and added a much-needed jolt of humor to an otherwise severe collection.

See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:

Head of State Men’s Spring 2018: Taofeek Abijako, who just turned 19, looked to West African artists for his collection. 

Krammer & Stoudt Men’s Spring 2018: The collection had a casual Baja feel but also included a tuxedo for the first time. 

Bristol Los Angeles Men’s Spring 2018: The collection offered a unique take on streetwear from the Aughts.

Wood House Men’s Spring 2018: Julian Woodhouse presented a playful collection to escape from the taxing political climate.

David Hart Men’s Spring 2018: The designer referenced Cuba for his retro-themed, colorful collection.

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