Acne flipped the fashion show on its head, putting models in the front-row seats and sending guests down the catwalk. The result was jarring, as models embraced their roles wholeheartedly, slumping in their seats, looking bored, distracted – and periodically standing up and breaking into applause at all the people with their notepads and iPhone cameras.
They did all of this dressed in voluminous clothing: Wide, sweeping trousers made with enough fabric to pitch a good-sized tent and long matching cotton trenches in watery green or gray, or the burgundy color Swedes traditionally use to paint their barnlike country houses.
Those oversized suits were paired with knitted or crocheted sweaters and vests, including one in burgundy with a bright blue cornflower design. Others came with a pixelated argyle pattern in a soothing palette of mint, aqua and cinnamon or dark blue, olive and sage.
A sleeveless gray knit tank had little red flowers embroidered on the front, while some suits had crochetlike stitching around the armholes and down the trouser legs, recalling the interiors of those cozy country houses.
Creative director Jonny Johansson said he was going for a sensitive and romantic feel, as opposed to taking the “apocalyptic urban warrior” route, and his aim was to capture that moment each summer when Swedish city men turn into country boys, and begin to decompress into a simpler and more laid-back life.
It worked a treat, and if those giant trousers prove to be problematic for everyday pursuits, their fabric could always serve as shelter on a crisp white night in the great Swedish outdoors.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Jil Sander Men’s Spring and Resort 2018: Lucie and Luke Meier debuted at Jil Sander with a women’s and a men’s collections, which offered a fresh, new take on the signature rigorous elegance of the brand.
Fausto Puglisi Men’s Spring 2018: Urban, baggy silhouettes met references to the Ancient Greek and Roman cultures in this capsule collection.
Missoni Men’s Spring 2018: Angela Missoni designed an easy-breezy collection featuring an ultrarich color palette.
3.1 Phillip Lim Men’s Spring 2018: The designer was inspired by artists and created a paint-splattered collection of updated staples.
Antonio Marras Men’s Spring 2018: Antonio Marras got inspired by American movie “The Beguiled” for his beautiful collection combining masculine silhouettes with feminine detailing.
Wood Wood Men’s Spring 2018: A quote from “Talented Mr. Ripley” inspired the signature pattern of this urban, wearable men’s collection.