Ambush has come a long way in the last few months. Though the brand only started making clothes two seasons ago, it was one of the eight finalists of the 2017 edition of the LVMH Prize for Young Designers.
Yoon Ahn, the self-taught designer who cofounded the label with her husband, Japanese hip-hop artist Verbal, said its spring collection for men and women reflected that progression. She was inspired by the classic Eighties movie “The Breakfast Club,” about five teenagers belonging to different high school cliques.
“I feel like we’re graduating from high school,” she said. “I thought, hey, why don’t I just make a collection that’s about coming of age?”
Working off the archetypes of “a brain, an athlete, a basket case, a princess and a criminal,” she toyed with classics like a varsity jacket and a trenchcoat, which were slit in the front to alter their proportions. A red-and-black track suit paired with a rhinestone-studded crop top channeled a rebellious attitude.
“There’s nothing new under the sun, right?” Yoon said. “I think the most modern thing you can do with designing is just taking something that’s existing and introducing it in a way that hasn’t been done.”
Among the standouts was her version of a prom dress: a Cupro maxidress embroidered with doodles — princess-meets-basket-case personified.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Hermès Men’s Spring 2018: Véronique Nichanian jumped on the streetwear bandwagon with shiny track pants, oversized hoodies and parkas in technical fabrics.
Balmain Men’s Spring 2018: Olivier Rousteing took his bow in a deep-V Breton wrap sweater, and worked many of those French standards into his typically jazzy lineup.
Dior Homme Men’s Spring 2018: Kris Van Assche, who is celebrating a decade at the helm, paid homage to the know-how of the brand with a new Christian Dior Atelier label.
Sacai Men’s Spring 2018: The overall mood was cleaner and more graphic with the slogan looks telegraphing an ultra clean, preppy-punk vibe.
Berluti Men’s Spring 2018: As he did for his debut collection, Ackermann showed a handful of looks on female models such as Liya Kebede and Stella Tennant.