A heady bohemian air hung over this collection that was filled with loose silk corduroy, black flowers and tasteful flashes of skin. It was also heavy on loose robe coats and languid pajama suits fit for an artist or aristocrat who regularly rolls out of bed in time for a late lunch.

Creative director Sebastien Meunier said he was thinking about Robert Mapplethorpe and Patti Smith (a longtime friend of Demeulemeester’s, and occasional front-row guest at her shows) and the romance of their life at the Chelsea hotel.

Inside the Palais de Tokyo, Meunier captured that rich period with a lineup of models — some of them with gray hair — wearing big flower chokers, knee-high leather boots and wide black leather corset belts. The fluid, fluttery and often sheer clothing served as a foil to those hard-edged, and slightly sinister, accessories.

Wrinkled black suits were worn with untucked white shirts, some with contrasting flower embroidery. Long velvety robes and jackets were made from shiny silk corduroy the color of rust — some slashed into long panels at the back — while matching trousers sat low on hips. A white suit was made from alternating sheer and opaque stripes, while a black one was done in a delicate cotton eyelet. Other suits looked more like patterned pajamas.

The tops took on a life of their own: Silk ones slipped off the shoulder, sheer ones hinted at the bodies beneath, while white tunic styles came with black flower print. One tank top looked as if it was made from gold spiders’ webs. This portrait of the artists in their bohemian youth was sensual, beautiful and wearable. The challenge for Meunier is how to draw a younger audience into the Demeulemeester dream.

See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Jil Sander Men’s Spring and Resort 2018: Lucie and Luke Meier debuted at Jil Sander with a women’s and a men’s collections, which offered a fresh, new take on the signature rigorous elegance of the brand.
Fausto Puglisi Men’s Spring 2018: Urban, baggy silhouettes met references to the Ancient Greek and Roman cultures in this capsule collection.
Missoni Men’s Spring 2018: Angela Missoni designed an easy-breezy collection featuring a ultra rich color palette.
3.1 Phillip Lim Men’s Spring 2018: The designer was inspired by artists and created a paint-splattered collection of updated staples.
Antonio Marras Men’s Spring 2018: Antonio Marras got inspired by American movie “The Beguiled” for his beautiful collection combining masculine silhouettes with feminine detailing.
\Wood Wood Men’s Spring 2018: A quote from “Talented Mr. Ripley” inspired the signature pattern of this urban, wearable men’s collection.
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