“I want one of everything,” exclaimed Natalia Vodianova as she congratulated Haider Ackermann after his Berluti men’s show, staged in a courtyard of the Paris Mint.

As he did for his debut collection last season, Ackermann showed a handful of looks on female models such as Liya Kebede and Stella Tennant. But even the outfits worn by men had a languid elegance that gave them a gender-fluid aura.

“It’s always a good thing to have women around, and you know, they all borrow their men’s clothes when they love, so it’s a healthy thing. It’s a very sexy thing,” the designer said backstage.

Vodianova is the partner of Antoine Arnault, chief executive officer of Berluti, and likely has access to a trove of the label’s clothes. Ackermann hopes to seduce a broader audience with his fresh take on the historic men’s shoemaker, which has been making ready-to-wear since 2011.

Working from a base of fine knits and low-slung pants, cropped above the ankle to better show off zippered boots, he highlighted the house’s leather knowhow with items like tailored jackets and coats with visible stitching on the lapel. They were slick, but the more casual options were even more impressive.

A straight bomber jacket was made of powdery black alligator skin, while a beige biker jacket had an artfully weathered patina. Luxed-up track pants and filmy technical jackets came in a mouthwatering palette of pale pastel tones, deftly combined with neutral shades of cream, gray and black.

“I wanted to be smooth and very gentle but very effortless, not too precious, just laid-back,” said Ackermann. “The fact that last season was a first step, and the house has been supporting me so much, you feel more free.”

Ackermann is clearly putting his stamp on Berluti with growing confidence — but it’s a quiet revolution.

See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Jil Sander Men’s Spring and Resort 2018: Lucie and Luke Meier debuted at Jil Sander with a women’s and a men’s collections, which offered a fresh, new take on the signature rigorous elegance of the brand.
Fausto Puglisi Men’s Spring 2018: Urban, baggy silhouettes met references to the Ancient Greek and Roman cultures in this capsule collection.
Missoni Men’s Spring 2018: Angela Missoni designed an easy-breezy collection featuring an ultrarich color palette.
3.1 Phillip Lim Men’s Spring 2018: The designer was inspired by artists and created a paint-splattered collection of updated staples.
Antonio Marras Men’s Spring 2018: Antonio Marras got inspired by American movie “The Beguiled” for his beautiful collection combining masculine silhouettes with feminine detailing.
Wood Wood Men’s Spring 2018: A quote from “Talented Mr. Ripley” inspired the signature pattern of this urban, wearable men’s collection.
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