In his first Paris Men’s Fashion Week presentation, designer Chin Yu Wang drew inspiration from the unadorned underlinens used to protect the structural underpinnings of the Victorian feminine silhouette.

He presented daywear with a feminine softness but undeniable masculinity. What worked were inflections on well-tailored trousers, a structured tailored tunic, roomy revisits of the morning coat and cropped sweaters. A puff-sleeve playsuit in cream batiste was daring but sparked interest.

Trickier were the plain nightdress/long shirt, overly lacy tops or those items adorned with bows; those passably stumbled out of a mothballed trunk. His work has already caught the eye of retailers such as Opening Ceremony. If he wants to cut muster in the overtaxed Paris schedule, he needs to push the envelope of his tailored exploration of volumes.

See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:

Y-3 Men’s Spring 2018: The graphic, back-to-basics collection celebrated 15 years of collaboration between the sportswear brand and Yohji Yamamoto.

Faith Connexion Men’s Spring 2018: The brand worked with artist Austin Blaisdell and designer Stefan Cooke on the collection.

Kenzo Men’s Spring 2018: The collection paid homage to two house muses, past and present.

Alexander McQueen Men’s Spring 2018: Sarah Burton wanted her men’s designs to reflect her fascination with nature and folklore.

Thom Browne Men’s Spring 2018: The show celebrated gender fluidity, with man skirts a key focus of the collection.