Full of dots, patchwork and pastel colors, this collection was like a bright fashion rainbow arching across Place Vendôme. Easy and upbeat with interesting stitching and surfaces, the collection featured a mix of tailoring and spiffed-up streetwear in a palette of Easter egg pastels and primary colors.
Roomy lilac shorts came with a white shirt that had a dripping red dot pattern (courtesy of the American artist Mary Heilmann) while summery jackets were made from a jaunty patchwork of blue and white stripes and checks.
Rei Kawakubo also worked to elevate the classics: Hoodies were long and elegant with a trapeze shape, white button-front shirts came with haphazardly paneled sleeves or tone-on-tone patches at the front. Tailored denim jackets and trousers with exposed seams looked as if they’d been stitched together from different bits of fabric.
Shirts had split personalities, with different color backs and fronts in combinations such as pink and aqua, or mint and lilac. The two sides were stitched together roughly across the neck and shoulders like something Frankenstein’s tailor might have whipped up.
Kawakubo treated cardigans and pullovers in a similar manner, although the seams on the two-tone sweaters were more polished, and less monsterlike.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Valentino Men’s Spring 2018: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s casual lineup was all about self-expression.
Y/Project Men’s Spring 2018: The collection was more merch-friendly without losing any of the edge.
Cédric Charlier Men’s Spring 2018: Called “Playtime,” the starting point for the coed collection was a sculpture by Todd Knopke.
Balenciaga Men’s Spring 2018: Demna Gvasalia’s collection was an ode to Sunday in the park with Dad
Jil Sander Men’s Spring and Resort 2018: Lucie and Luke Meier debuted at Jil Sander with a women’s and a men’s collections, which offered a fresh, new take on the signature rigorous elegance of the brand.
Fausto Puglisi Men’s Spring 2018: Urban, baggy silhouettes met references to the Ancient Greek and Roman cultures in this capsule collection.