The setting — Florence’s Museo Bardini, filled with time-worn artifacts and medieval and renaissance sculptures from the collection of 19th-century art dealer Stefano Bardini — could not have been better. Barefoot, toting battered sneakers hanging from ties, Federico Curradi’s bohemian protagonists blended with the site’s decor, their layered, flowing ensembles doused in the colors of the museum and the city beyond. (Think rust, green, stormy grays and blues echoing the tint of the museum’s walls.)
Takeaway items included superthin trenchcoats in silky shirting fabrics, pajama shirts, boxer shorts-inspired Bermuda pants and washed knits in painterly inky blots evoking a stormy Florentine sky.
A timeless, artistic mood pervaded, with white ties streaming from looks to give a youthful edge, and silhouettes coming artfully undone.
Cut from washed cottons, even the Tuscan designer’s suiting — simple and slightly boxy — was super unstructured and relaxed. But it was the artisanal details like the fraying at the necklines, patchwork trims and kimono ties that made the pieces feel one-of-a-kind.
See More From the London 2018 Men’s Spring Collections:
Barbour International Men’s Spring 2018: The Barbour International team looked once again to the brand’s motorcycling heritage.
Pringle of Scotland Men’s Spring 2018: Pringle took a poetic turn with a collection inspired by Virginia Woolf’s “To the Lighthouse.”
Nigel Cabourn Men’s Spring 2018: The collection was inspired by the style of Sean Flynn, Errol’s son, the actor and Vietnam War photographer who disappeared in 1970 in Cambodia.
Bobby Abley Men’s Spring 2018: Cynics may raise an eyebrow, but the spring collection was fun and looked good, so who cares?
D. Gnak Men’s Spring 2018: D. Gnak creative director Kang Dong Jun made his London debut at a runway show held at Store Studios on Tuesday.
Belstaff Men’s Spring 2018: The enduring romance of the Paris-Dakar rally, the off-road endurance event first staged in 1978, was on Delphine Ninous’ mind.