With its whiff of the Mexican drug lord, Haider Ackermann’s collection was the antithesis of his luxe, polished offer for Berluti, where he also serves as creative director.
“They’re bad boys in search of themselves, but they’re becoming more mature,” said the designer, who was also thinking about Mexico — and Frida Kahlo — for this collection that had plenty of attitude.
Models, their hair parted in the middle and pulled back tight into long skinny braids, wore flat strappy sandals, his signature low-slung trousers, and jackets layered over bare chests. Some donned tank tops or long scarves wound around their necks, and while they weren’t carrying switchblades, they could have been.
Even the suits, which were loose and flowy — some as liquid as silk pajamas — had a tough edge to them, with the sleeves of jackets pushed up high on the arm, and waistbands dipping low to show off boxer shorts underneath.
There were stripes everywhere, black-and-white and colored ones — fat, skinny, pin and chalk ones — on loose tops and trousers, and on an aqua double-breasted suit with rolled cuffs and scrunched-up sleeves.
Where there weren’t stripes there were black-and-white dots, on trousers and jackets that looked as if they were made from a patchwork of torn fabric or paper, with jagged seams, like long scars, all part of the look.
Though Ackermann’s men could be menacing at times, the collection was fresh and sophisticated, a new kind of streetwear: tailoring with swagger and rough edges.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Valentino Men’s Spring 2018: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s casual lineup was all about self-expression.
Y/Project Men’s Spring 2018: The collection was more merch-friendly without losing any of the edge.
Cédric Charlier Men’s Spring 2018: Called “Playtime,” the starting point for the coed collection was a sculpture by Todd Knopke.
Balenciaga Men’s Spring 2018: Demna Gvasalia’s collection was an ode to Sunday in the park with Dad
Jil Sander Men’s Spring and Resort 2018: Lucie and Luke Meier debuted at Jil Sander with a women’s and a men’s collections, which offered a fresh, new take on the signature rigorous elegance
of the brand.
Fausto Puglisi Men’s Spring 2018: Urban, baggy silhouettes met references to the Ancient Greek and Roman cultures in this capsule collection.