As Julien David’s decade in the business nears, the designer seemed to consider the roots of his style as the starting point of his spring season.
The lineup was simple fare, full of “[his version of] ordinary clothes, garments you know and that you don’t think about twice,” he gave as clarification backstage before the show.
Girls and boys, in jeans and T-shirts: in a season where basic realness is beautiful, that’s what he offered, from a white T with his signature embroidered as if it was just a thread clinging there by accident to well-cut chinos. It isn’t the first time that David’s adjusted aesthetic tacks.
Standing out were the looks in which his passion for quality textiles stood out, including a translucent chiffon trouser coated to achieve a platinum finish, a nylon shirtdress in a heat-generated polka-dot pattern, but also smart Japanese denim jeans or the vegetal tanned leather sneakers.
In lieu of a finale, a model stood from the bench where he’d been sitting the entire show and pulled his paper-thin black nylon coat on. He hadn’t stood out from the fashion crowd, in the best way.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Hermès Men’s Spring 2018: Véronique Nichanian jumped on the streetwear bandwagon with shiny track pants, oversized hoodies and parkas in technical fabrics.
Balmain Men’s Spring 2018: Olivier Rousteing took his bow in a deep-V Breton wrap sweater, and worked many of those French standards into his typically jazzy lineup.
Dior Homme Men’s Spring 2018: Kris Van Assche, who is celebrating a decade at the helm, paid homage to the know-how of the brand with a new Christian Dior Atelier label.
Sacai Men’s Spring 2018: The overall mood was cleaner and more graphic with the slogan looks telegraphing an ultra clean, preppy-punk vibe.
Berluti Men’s Spring 2018: As he did for his debut collection, Ackermann showed a handful of looks on female models such as Liya Kebede and Stella Tennant.