This small debut collection by Ludovic de Saint Sernin was filled with androgynous silhouettes and sensual touches such as small Japanese ceramic discs that touched the skin, high slits on trouser legs and lacing at the waistbands.

De Saint Sernin was most recently a member of the design team at Balmain, and works between Paris and London. He said he designed the collection “for anyone who wants to wear it,” and made little distinction between men’s and women’s looks.

To drive that point home, de Saint Sernin accessorized his languid shapes with small leather handbags, ballet shoes with ribbons and backless slippers.

Highlights included a tobacco leather jacket, a twill safari style suit with eyelet details, wide linen culottes with cutouts at the hip and a gauzy ribbed knit sweater.

There were racier looks, too, in the form of flared trousers with a big slit up the leg and contrast lacing at the back, and a skimpy vest top made from small, glazed ceramic tiles. A smoky gray trench with a plastic-y surface and an apron-style top added a strong whiff of eroticism to the lineup.

See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:

Y-3 Men’s Spring 2018: The graphic, back-to-basics collection celebrated 15 years of collaboration between the sportswear brand and Yohji Yamamoto.

Faith Connexion Men’s Spring 2018: The brand worked with artist Austin Blaisdell and designer Stefan Cooke on the collection.

Kenzo Men’s Spring 2018: The collection paid homage to two house muses, past and present.

Alexander McQueen Men’s Spring 2018: Sarah Burton wanted her men’s designs to reflect her fascination with nature and folklore.

Thom Browne Men’s Spring 2018: The show celebrated gender fluidity, with man skirts a key focus of the collection.