With lilting reggae blasting out from a supersize sculptural wooden speaker, Luke Meier joined the growing ranks of designers making a sartorial stand against these doomsday times. People for Peace protest badges on trenches and heavy parkas were among the direct nods, but the designer also sent out some interesting hand-painted creative camouflages, including a great floral print, turning something warlike into artistic expression.
“I like something that’s aggressive and tough looking but I wanted it to feel lighter,” said Meier, who opted for more organic fabrics like the round silk and poplin shirts that puffed in movement, elongated tropical wool and cotton tweed topcoats and crumpled cotton rust macs.
A nylon coat with tweed interior pockets nodded to the line’s bulked up tailoring component, which contributed to an altogether more sophisticated mood, with the designer burning the midnight oil to perfect the line’s fits, cuts and constructions.
Structured bombers with super-sharp tailored shoulders had a military feel. Details included micro-scarf stitch edging on shirts and delicate embroidered accents.
Signature pieces like ultralight outerwear with technical elements were still there but as a whole it felt cleaner and less gimmicky, with the soft shearling gilets lending a sense of innocence. Could the pared back minimalism of Jil Sander, for whom Meier is the new creative director, be rubbing off?
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Valentino Men’s Spring 2018: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s casual lineup was all about self-expression.
Y/Project Men’s Spring 2018: The collection was more merch-friendly without losing any of the edge.
Cédric Charlier Men’s Spring 2018: Called “Playtime,” the starting point for the coed collection was a sculpture by Todd Knopke.
Balenciaga Men’s Spring 2018: Demna Gvasalia’s collection was an ode to Sunday in the park with Dad
Jil Sander Men’s Spring and Resort 2018: Lucie and Luke Meier debuted at Jil Sander with a women’s and a men’s collections, which offered a fresh, new take on the signature rigorous elegance
of the brand.
Fausto Puglisi Men’s Spring 2018: Urban, baggy silhouettes met references to the Ancient Greek and Roman cultures in this capsule collection.