The atmosphere was electric at Palomo Spain’s first Paris show as the heels of flamenco prodigy Rafael, a young dancer hailing from a tiny village near Seville, tapped up a storm.
From the audience, including “13 Reasons Why’s” Tommy Dorfman in an oversize pinstripe jacket and pumps, it’s clear that Alejandro Gomez Palomo is putting the “cult” in “cultural” by amassing a large following.
“It felt time to do a show, as I have started to know people after coming to Paris for two seasons for our sales campaign,” the designer said, describing this offering as a capsule.
The lineup followed the idea of a flamenco boy playing with fashion.
“[This capsule] is my way of translating the Palomo aesthetic in a way that people will understand,” the designer said, pointing out the exuberant suiting and craftsmanship.
The overarching feeling would be “if the shoe fits,” as Palomo’s designs abstract the gender-labelling of certain garment shapes. It is clear that to him, beautiful clothes are beautiful clothes. “I don’t want to sound pretentious by saying I am doing couture, but [I want to] give men the chance to dress up again and enjoy fashion,” he said.
Male models therefore donned flamenco-inspired outfits with graphic ruffling, cropped fitted jackets and kicky flared trousers in a chatoyant palette of brights, white and black.
What is even clearer is that his approach is not exactly gender-neutral: the cuts of dresses (for lack of a better word) are not suited for feminine body shapes, and the suits are definitely tailored for masculine body types. In this design view, a Palomo dress is no more and no less than the Scottish kilt.
While the Paris capsule veered too much toward the folkloric to the detriment of Palomo’s alternative definition of the masculine wardrobe, it was nonetheless a good introduction to his efforts to create a firm identity for his brand.