“Guess what? The collection had to do with the ocean,” said Paul Smith, who had sent rubber fish to his guests by way of an invitation, and served up fish-shaped butter cookies — and ice cream — before the show.
“In this strange world, we need a bit of fun, a bit of optimism, and who wouldn’t want to be sitting next to the ocean at this time of year?” asked the designer, who conjured starry tropical scenes, fish and flower patterns, and a rainbow of jewel tones for his upbeat, coed outing.
Silhouettes were different from past seasons: Jackets were slightly longer, with a stronger shoulder, while lapels were fixed in place. They were worn with skinny trousers and bright, patterned ties.
Smith also flaunted a rich jewel-tone palette, pairing an acid yellow jacket with darkly exotic flower print cargo pants or fuchsia trousers with an emerald green jacket. Suits came in faded tomato, bright blue or cinnamon.
Fish, coral and sea anemones — partly inspired by the fish market in Japan, where Smith has a major following — twisted and floated over knits, Fifties-style bowling shirts and bombers, while flowers blossomed across dresses and sarong skirts. Leaves dropped gently over a woman’s sky blue suit, which was made with fabric turned inside-out.
Smith, who started showing men’s and women’s together in January, said this was the first women’s collection conceived as a stand-alone effort — rather than an outgrowth of the men’s, and that came through with the easy Forties shapes, wrap dresses and skirt and bright parkas with drawstring waists. On trend and commercial — with a splash of fantasy — this collection had the wind in its sails.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Hermès Men’s Spring 2018: Véronique Nichanian jumped on the streetwear bandwagon with shiny track pants, oversized hoodies and parkas in technical fabrics.
Balmain Men’s Spring 2018: Olivier Rousteing took his bow in a deep-V Breton wrap sweater, and worked many of those French standards into his typically jazzy lineup.
Dior Homme Men’s Spring 2018: Kris Van Assche, who is celebrating a decade at the helm, paid homage to the know-how of the brand with a new Christian Dior Atelier label.
Sacai Men’s Spring 2018: The overall mood was cleaner and more graphic with the slogan looks telegraphing an ultra clean, preppy-punk vibe.
Berluti Men’s Spring 2018: As he did for his debut collection, Ackermann showed a handful of looks on female models such as Liya Kebede and Stella Tennant.