Shangguan Zhe name checked the late American artist Cy Twombly, drawing from his visual universe as well as the artist’s life. The dichotomy between classic cuts and contemporary favorites — bomber jackets, wide shorts and workwear — created a dialogue of volumes that felt fresh.
The less congruent pieces were those that took Zhe’s proclivity for the military too literally. An assortment of three camouflages felt busy, not buzzy.
Vastly superior was the tailoring, a nod to the artist’s Italian home, that brought about double-layer jackets that looked well cut on their own, or as pairs of bomber and jacket, jacket and overcoat. As for the paint-coated muslins and coated fabrics, they stayed on the right side of pliant as coats or trousers. The final group in scribbles and paint splatters was reminiscent of Twombly’s work, and glowed with energy.
“You would be happy if I just kept well dressed and had good manners,” the artist once said to his mother. “What else is there?“ she replied. What else, indeed.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Hermès Men’s Spring 2018: Véronique Nichanian jumped on the streetwear bandwagon with shiny track pants, oversized hoodies and parkas in technical fabrics.
Balmain Men’s Spring 2018: Olivier Rousteing took his bow in a deep-V Breton wrap sweater, and worked many of those French standards into his typically jazzy lineup.
Dior Homme Men’s Spring 2018: Kris Van Assche, who is celebrating a decade at the helm, paid homage to the know-how of the brand with a new Christian Dior Atelier label.
Sacai Men’s Spring 2018: The overall mood was cleaner and more graphic with the slogan looks telegraphing an ultra clean, preppy-punk vibe.
Berluti Men’s Spring 2018: As he did for his debut collection, Ackermann showed a handful of looks on female models such as Liya Kebede and Stella Tennant.