For his third show, titled “Tender,” Sean Suen explored softness. Not in his tailoring, which remains sharp even in the oversize proportions that he favors, but in the color palette of nude, putty, light blue and soft metallic lifted from the work of German contemporary artist Daniel Sinsel.
Suen delivered a balanced mix that made good use of his eye for volume, supple fabrics — from matte leather to sheer knits — and an artistic sensibility that he no doubt developed during his studies in fine arts and graphic design.
Here, he captured masculine grace in motion. Satin gave trousers a fluid hand, and turned a coat into a robe fit for Oscar Wilde — louche, yet elegant. Everything was worn large, but not so much as to look ill-fitting.
Many looks featured collars that framed the face, some added as neckpieces. Framing the face in a formal but not imposing manner, they seemed to hint that they were the true mark of sophistication, rather than the tie, which was now relegated to an afterthought — here to tie a coat, there as a belt.
The mood felt, at times, too childish: sleeves slipped over the edges of fingers felt distracting, as did the over-large collars that slipped awkwardly when moving, giving the impression of playing dress up.
The best looks were a zipped leather blouson that paired equally well with knee-length satin shorts or long metallic trousers; a belted overcoat with extra-wide lapels, belt knotted in a simple tie knot, and the denim tailored into trousers.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Valentino Men’s Spring 2018: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s casual lineup was all about self-expression.
Y/Project Men’s Spring 2018: The collection was more merch-friendly without losing any of the edge.
Cédric Charlier Men’s Spring 2018: Called “Playtime,” the starting point for the coed collection was a sculpture by Todd Knopke.
Balenciaga Men’s Spring 2018: Demna Gvasalia’s collection was an ode to Sunday in the park with Dad
Jil Sander Men’s Spring and Resort 2018: Lucie and Luke Meier debuted at Jil Sander with a women’s and a men’s collections, which offered a fresh, new take on the signature rigorous elegance
of the brand.
Fausto Puglisi Men’s Spring 2018: Urban, baggy silhouettes met references to the Ancient Greek and Roman cultures in this capsule collection.