Bad boys, not bad clothes: that was the overarching theme of The Kooples’ spring collection shown on the first day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week. The Parisian label’s creative director Alexandre Elicha name-checked American film director Jim Jarmusch among the inspirations for this lineup.
He brought a sportswear overlay to the brand’s tailored rocker mien, as well as a cohort of branded items such as nylon blousons, varsity jackets, track pants, lightweight gym bags and even thick white sport socks.
The label’s usually fitted look grew to oversize proportions, with tailored shorts cut wide, trousers getting looser and longer legs that broke at the foot. Dark wool was cut into track pants, giving them an elevated yet relaxed feel accentuated by the sheen of a tuxedo stripe. A kimono jacket in a denim blue panther motif walked the line between street sensation and rock star.
As a whole, the collection seemed to stretch its inspiration to its limits. Elicha noted that each look was the forerunner of distinct limited releases dropping monthly in stores, conceived independently of each other. “[Each group] is a small story in a bigger book,” he said. “This is a way for us to offer stronger pieces and also refresh our creative outlook constantly.”
True to the brand’s rock roots, painted panthers, tattoos, silkscreen prints and electric guitars in intarsia climbed up the sleeves of sweaters and long-sleeved T-shirts, while chains dangled off the zips of a boxy, cropped leather blouson. Long, thin studded belts held patched denim that looked like gems unearthed in a vintage rummage sale. Suiting in Prince of Wales skewed toward a rockabilly sensibility, with ankle length trousers and boxy jackets.
On the accessories front, sneakers accompanied every look. Some 20 variations in colorways and material choices will be available in limited runs. Elsewhere, long, thin studded belts in primary colors, keychains and embroidered caps tapped the concert merchandise vibe, as did printed T-shirts and embroidered hoodies.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Hermès Men’s Spring 2018: Véronique Nichanian jumped on the streetwear bandwagon with shiny track pants, oversized hoodies and parkas in technical fabrics.
Balmain Men’s Spring 2018: Olivier Rousteing took his bow in a deep-V Breton wrap sweater, and worked many of those French standards into his typically jazzy lineup.
Dior Homme Men’s Spring 2018: Kris Van Assche, who is celebrating a decade at the helm, paid homage to the know-how of the brand with a new Christian Dior Atelier label.
Sacai Men’s Spring 2018: The overall mood was cleaner and more graphic with the slogan looks telegraphing an ultra clean, preppy-punk vibe.
Berluti Men’s Spring 2018: As he did for his debut collection, Ackermann showed a handful of looks on female models such as Liya Kebede and Stella Tennant.