Ben Taverniti and his wife, Kardashian-connected makeup artist Joyce Bonelli, are continuing to establish his brand Unravel as the staple of those looking for what he called “easy drama,” a range of retooled basics spliced together to achieve the kind of highly studied, picture-perfect street look.
For men, that translated into a glut of technical elements for spring. There were fused seams, featherlight nylon shorts, a tailored blazer. A number of pieces focused on performance such as thermofused, supercross-stretch harem pants. A leather jacket was created with motorsports specialists, and was worn with matching trousers — both featuring all the necessary protective layers, and could be ridden in, Taverniti assured. Loose cashmere knits, supersized hoodies and Space-Age blocky sneakers completed the offering.
Denim was a big story. Recently added to the line, it featured jeans overlaid with an integrated plaid shirt fixed to look like you were wearing it around your hips, or more classic deeply tooled, frayed pairs.
Women can look forward to a collection — codesigned by Bonelli — that plays on the brand’s basics: the strong-shouldered denim jacket shape done in leather, slouchy hybrids of crew-neck and ribbed knitwear, a bomber-denim jacket mix for that off-the-shoulders volume. “By mixing basics, we’re creating new volumes. I always have issues when collections are over-designed,” she said.
Some racier choices were latex dresses, glossy five-pocket jeans, a waspie cut from the waistband of jeans and PVC trenches. Easier ones came in variations on white, resulting in the palest pink, a barely there gray and a buttery white. A cropped MA-1 with long puckered sleeves was one of the standouts.
His first collection, some two years ago, consisted of a T-shirt, a bomber, a hoodie, leather pants and a biker jacket, tweaked to his personal taste specs. “The biggest luxuries are details, and true luxury is building your own identity,” Taverniti said. Smart ones such as compartmentalized pockets show that while Unravel is riding the wave of social-savvy, Taverniti’s design chops appear to be here for the long game.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Hermès Men’s Spring 2018: Véronique Nichanian jumped on the streetwear bandwagon with shiny track pants, oversized hoodies and parkas in technical fabrics.
Balmain Men’s Spring 2018: Olivier Rousteing took his bow in a deep-V Breton wrap sweater, and worked many of those French standards into his typically jazzy lineup.
Dior Homme Men’s Spring 2018: Kris Van Assche, who is celebrating a decade at the helm, paid homage to the know-how of the brand with a new Christian Dior Atelier label.
Sacai Men’s Spring 2018: The overall mood was cleaner and more graphic with the slogan looks telegraphing an ultra clean, preppy-punk vibe.
Berluti Men’s Spring 2018: As he did for his debut collection, Ackermann showed a handful of looks on female models such as Liya Kebede and Stella