In this shift from the label’s sophisticated, romantic aesthetic toward a younger, sportier direction, design duo Woo Youngmi and her daughter Katie Chung channeled Eighties normcore, triggered by watching the Catherine Hardwicke-helmed biopic “Lords of Dogtown,” based on a group of ferocious young L.A. skaters known as the Z-Boys.
The laid-back skater attitude came through in their take on the new suit, with spins on retro volumes on jackets and pants out with cargo pockets and buttons. The experimentation with quirky pant lengths was hit and miss, and the play on paisley bandana motifs and oversized cuffs on blousons and long-sleeved T-shirts also looked tricky. More compelling were the clean, upscale versions of workwear staples, the revisited skinny bleached denim, and the checked looks ranging from supersized shirts to pants and geek-chic cardigans.
Gritty garb will never be Wooyoungmi’s specialty, but in terms of the brand’s aim, approachable luxury more connected to what’s happening now, it was mission accomplished.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Hermès Men’s Spring 2018: Véronique Nichanian jumped on the streetwear bandwagon with shiny track pants, oversized hoodies and parkas in technical fabrics.
Balmain Men’s Spring 2018: Olivier Rousteing took his bow in a deep-V Breton wrap sweater, and worked many of those French standards into his typically jazzy lineup.
Dior Homme Men’s Spring 2018: Kris Van Assche, who is celebrating a decade at the helm, paid homage to the know-how of the brand with a new Christian Dior Atelier label.
Sacai Men’s Spring 2018: The overall mood was cleaner and more graphic with the slogan looks telegraphing an ultra clean, preppy-punk vibe.
Berluti Men’s Spring 2018: As he did for his debut collection, Ackermann showed a handful of looks on female models such as Liya Kebede and Stella Tennant.