Celebrating 15 years of collaboration with Adidas on Y-3, Yohji Yamamoto went back to basics. “We cut out all forms of complicated expression. It’s very straight, easily understandable, simple,” the designer said before the show.
At his side was Nic Galway, senior vice president of global design at Adidas Originals, who echoed that they “really wanted to remember why we started, to go back.
“Yohji is very inspired by uniforms, and three stripes is a uniform. That’s what we remember today, but obviously has a lot has changed,” Galway mused. “The sneakers you will see today are the best innovations in the world, and we have the partnership with Yohji to bring a new voice. If we design sneakers together, it has to ask questions. It’s a chance to challenge the status quo and push boundaries.”
The collection telegraphed a minimalist, street-athletic vibe , especially the capsule of elongated white shirts sporting a painterly Y-3 logo at the back.
Softening the strict attitude were the sarouel pants, while draped inserts on tops worked in cut-and-sew stripes added nice movement. Injections of color included an electric blue theme with a botanical print by longtime Y-3 collaborator Taishi Hayashi.
Among the rich pickings were glossy coach jackets, a seamless pale gray hoodie in supersoft jersey , oversized bombers and dungarees, not forgetting the sneaker styles including the Bashyo mid-cut style with a sock-like Primeknit upper and suede toe cap, and the Kusari with a side-facing lace system and Adidas Boost soles.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Hermès Men’s Spring 2018: Véronique Nichanian jumped on the streetwear bandwagon with shiny track pants, oversized hoodies and parkas in technical fabrics.
Balmain Men’s Spring 2018: Olivier Rousteing took his bow in a deep-V Breton wrap sweater, and worked many of those French standards into his typically jazzy lineup.
Dior Homme Men’s Spring 2018: Kris Van Assche, who is celebrating a decade at the helm, paid homage to the know-how of the brand with a new Christian Dior Atelier label.
Sacai Men’s Spring 2018: The overall mood was cleaner and more graphic with the slogan looks telegraphing an ultra clean, preppy-punk vibe.
Berluti Men’s Spring 2018: As he did for his debut collection, Ackermann showed a handful of looks on female models such as Liya Kebede and Stella Tennant.