Playing with the concept of wearability and versatility has been Y/Project’s driving concept since the get-go, but here there was a palpable shift into a cleaner, more controlled delivery.

Glenn Martens in his musings on normal-guy dressing likes to play tricks with the patternmaking, spinning intriguing proportions on silhouettes, and for spring it had a new elegance. Case in point: a dusty pink jacket over a white T-shirt with, spooling out from underneath the jacket, a voluminous black underlayer nonchalantly knotted over a matching super baggy pant. The following look pairing pink baggies with a ruched burgundy sweater and scarf, a belt trailing down the leg, was equally cool in terms of proportions. New iterations of his cult ruched denim were also featured.

Martens layered, draped and twisted fabrics to take silhouettes somewhere new. Double layers were also a leitmotif, like echo collars on polo shirts with trompe l’oeil sleeves knotted at the neck; second sleeves hanging off the backs of short-sleeved shirts, and matching sections hanging off the side of coats, giving a double-vision spin.

The closing outfit summed up the direction with an oversize black boxy suit and blue shirt and tie with draped extra volume at the side and an asymmetric collar sticking up, that lent historical airs to a modern look.

With his vocabulary firmly in place, and key new factory partners in Italy, Portugal and France, the designer’s growing confidence came through in this stellar collection that was noticeably more merch-friendly without losing any of the edge. Scuffed up trainers finished off the looks.

More From Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2018:

Demna Gvasalia Takes Cool Dad Concept to the Next LevelDemna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga Spring 2018 collection was an ode to Sunday in the park with Dad.

Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli Says Goodbye Suit, Hello VLTN: The designer is preparing to unveil a sportswear-driven collection with a new logo that plays on the brand’s classical font.

Pigalle Paris to Present First Full NikeLab Capsule: Creative director Stéphane Ashpool will present the collection at his show at Paris’ Modern Art Museum on Thursday.

Off-White to Debut EMP TY Gallery at Paris Fashion Week: The “Another First Show” exhibition, curated by Piotr Niepsuj, will be available at the temporary gallery June 21-25.

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